Here is an assortment of questions I’ve received through my website or social media. Though the questions came from individuals, the issues are universal – feel free to write with questions of your own.

Q:  I have struggled trying to include the “cheat mount” in my game. I may be holding the gun too far out of the pocket, requiring too much movement. I also wonder if I’m not using it on the right type of target?

A:  The length of your mount should vary depending on the time you have to shoot – and that is a function of the target’s angle. The No. 1 error when using the cheat mount is head position.  Mount your gun to your break point and bring the gun back to your hold point with the gun fully mounted.  Now keep your head still and lower the gun slightly out of the pocket, keeping your hands loose on the gun. The gun should be about two or three inches off your face.  If you mount properly, the gun comes back to the face and pocket simultaneously while the head stays still.

Q:  I have a bad habit of lifting my head between shots of a pair, even if I don’t need to do so.  It causes inconsistency with my timing. Should I practice keeping my head on the gun on some basic pairs to get rid of this habit?

A: Yes. Remember that needs to be conscious training where you are telling yourself to keep your head on the gun.  Don’t worry if you miss targets at the outset – the idea is to build a new habit, not to break pairs.  Once you solidify this habit, then start working on doing it subconsciously while you focus on breaking each target.

Q:  I have trust issues.  Some guys would say I am a slow shooter, but I would say I am slow to trust and therefore hold onto the target for too long.  In my mind, trusting faster is different than shooting faster. I also seem to be able to shoot quicker when my hold points and line are spot-on. is on. I just don’t get my hold points and line consistently – that may just be lack of focus.  I know I need to be better at this. How best to practice or improve this? Simply more focus?

A: Shooting fast and trusting on going-away and quartering shots is surely related to the hold point and your setup.  You need to study the background on view pairs while you make your plan.  On these targets, I look at the background as much as I watch the targets.

With crossing targets, hold points are less of an issue. The critical variable is seeing the clay early and getting in sync early to get a good insertion.  It may help to use less soft focus on these shots.

Q: When shooting crossing targets, should the head rotate to pick up the target? My understanding is that I should look with my eyes only so I stay connected with the gun.

A:  I always “cut” my eyes back to my look point to pick up the target, and move my head only when necessary.  I teach shooters that the muzzle should stay under your master eye and to minimize their head movement as much as possible.

Q:  I struggle to “connect” with flat, edgy crossing targets.  I try to focus on them as well as possible, but rarely feel in sync with them.

A: This is common, since the target gives you very little to lock onto and your brain doesn’t get good feedback. You have two options: Spend less time “in” the gun as you are more likely to measure a lead; or try to shoot of a “gap” as opposed to feeling the lead develop.  When done correctly, you will sync up with the target to the proper break point. These are hard, and are missed more often than targets showing belly or dome.

Q:  I have been working out again and I think a stiff body is making me throw the gun at the target with my arms vs. using the body to rotate.  Should I just be hyper-focused on rotating properly when practicing crossers?

A: I sometimes notice I push the gun with my arms and my face doesn’t stay in the gun.  This generally means you are not starting your move with your feet/lower body. Narrow your stance, making sure your feet are not outside your armpits, and rotate on a balance point between your feet.